Oh, what it is to be a class-skipping teen growing up in the suburbs, brimming with rebellion, and thrashing about town in a baggy hoodie or swimming in a knee-length sweatshirt. Those were the days! Well, leave it to New York–based Lyz Olko to refresh your memory and revive your angsty aesthetic. Her Fall 2016 collection is replete with punkish teenage cotton pullovers and nubby vintage sweatshirts stenciled with paint, cut-and-sew pieces emblazoned with riffs on the yin and yang, and others stitched with phrases like “Lost Cause.”

The idea to rework the teenager closet classics stemmed from Olko’s childhood; she’s from a small town in New Jersey, where she found herself on the anti-authority fringes of suburban society. “I grew up in New Jersey and was into the crust punk and skateboarding subcultures, so hoodies and Dickies pants were a huge part of my wardrobe,” says Olko. “I was probably 13 when I first started wearing hoodies—it was when I discovered grunge and got my first blank deck at the skate shop in the larger town a few towns over from mine.”

When sourcing the fabrics for her pieces, Olko turns to secondhand shopping. “Some are made from assorted vintage sweatshirts that I thrift specifically for these combined print styles,” she says. “I love the thrill of the hunt. The larger idea of my line is to focus on using recycled fabrics and sustainable methods of production to create less waste.” One standout piece is created from two thrifted university sweatshirts hacked down the middle and sewn together to create a single juxtaposed logo. “I love the idea of mixing colors and prints. I was super-inspired by old Margiela and Bless pieces from the late ’90s and early 2000s, when the designers mixed different garments together completely, like a slip dress with a sweater,” she says. “I liked the idea of combining graphics I had made with old college sweatshirts. It’s kind of funny halving two universities to make a whole one, like a Transformer.” Old school, quite literally, made new.

See Article: Vogue.com

Lyz Olko